迈阿密之夏

Dior Homme创意总监克里斯•万艾思（Kris Van Assche）说：“我想在这一季探索‘简约的巴洛克'这个几乎自相矛盾的概念，为大家带来迈阿密的清新海风。我想要表现严谨的概念，但又不想对其多加限制。我希望创造许多对比效果和选择；打造不同比例的颜色和线条，一些更为别致而个性的东西。这些东西虽然严谨，但不失轻松和乐趣——演绎更多的选择和更加的轻盈。”

本季Dior Homme的设计重点在于提供更多的着装选择和机会：服装与穿着场合之间形成鲜明的对比；展现正式与休闲兼具的穿着风格；提供男性成衣基本元素和穿着乐趣，并由穿着者选择展现自我的表达方式，让精工细作的优雅感染上了沙滩的慵懒闲适。

比如，将吸烟装与沙滩这两种似乎毫不相干的事物和谐地结合起来，这堪称是探索这一理念的完美开端。这一季自一开始便将精致正装剪裁的庄重严肃与休闲动感风格的极致轻松和谐地结合在一起。贯穿整个系列的“短裤西装”线条是对这种风格的完美诠释——随性搭配手提公文包，同样能融合会议室与沙滩两种不同场合的穿着规则实现随意转换。

一些被视为主导男装风格的严格规则往往会扼杀时尚，本系列意在打破这些规则的束缚，表现其时尚对位的特质。整个系列将拼贴工艺运用得恰到好处，让汇集于此的各种元素找到它们最精确的表达方式。拼贴工艺的灵感源自艺术家约翰•张伯伦（John Chamberlain）和他对金属以及迈阿密装饰艺术图案的运用，绘制出全新的几何构图，塑造出立体抽象画，可用于表现更多的选择和鲜明的个性。本季系列采用了适度严谨的现代风格拼贴。其由运动装饰和金属饰物组成，活泼明快，极具装饰效果，又给人以正式精准之感。这种装饰工艺在有如镜像迷宫的秀台上同样极具外在表现力。

本季成衣集中表现了Dior Homme男性的满满自信：他们敢于将更为正式的着装，如丝缎，转变为T恤等休闲运动装；将奢华、轻质的皮革和羊毛与尼龙和针织面料混合搭配；采用一系列对比鲜明但互补的颜色、风格和线条来凸显个性的穿着选择。

“这一季我的确采用了大量的对比和反衬设计，希望能带来很好的效果”，Dior Homme男装创意总监克里斯这样说道。“总之，我想在这个系列中回归人性和乐趣元素。男装尤其需要一种愉悦、轻松的感觉。同时，轻松并不代表轻佻。”



“I wanted to explore the almost contradictory idea of ‘minimal baroque’ this season,” says Kris Van Assche, Creative Director of Dior Homme. “I wanted an idea of rigour, yet without so many restrictions attached to it. I wanted a lot of contrast and choice; different propositions in colour and silhouette, something more unconventional and individual at times. Something still rigorous, yet light and fun – choice, chance and lightness.”

The luxury of choice and the opportunities of chance are at the centre of the Dior Homme collection this season: the contrast between clothes and the situations they are worn in; the nature of the formal and the informal; the fundamentals and fun of masculine dress and how the wearer chooses to express their wardrobe.

The counterpoint of the tuxedo and the beach – usually seen as worlds apart, yet harmoniously explored here – is the starting point for much of this view. The tension between the height of tailored formality and the ultimate ease of casual, sporting informality is negotiated playfully from the beginning. The ‘shorts suit’ silhouette, which runs throughout the collection, is the ultimate exemplar of this – at times accompanied by a carried briefcase it can also blend and bend the rules of both the boardroom and the beach.

A breaking of the rigid rules and regulations that supposedly govern menswear, yet frequently stifle fashion, informs the contrapuntal quality of the collection. The various melodies that merge here find their most literal expression in the precision use of patchwork that punctuates throughout. Inspired originally by the artist John Chamberlain and his particular use of metals as well as the art deco motifs of Miami, patchwork used as an expression of choice, chance and individuality is both controlled and made contemporary here. Bonded by sportswear finishings and made up of metallics, patchwork is positioned as both playful, decorative excess and formalised precision. It also finds its outward expression in the mirrored labyrinthine nature of the show’s stage set.

The clothing this season has the confidence of the Dior Homme man at its heart: daring to transpose the codes of more formal dress, such as satin, into the realms of casual sportswear, such as t-shirts; mixing the use of luxurious, lightweight leathers and wools with nylons and knits; spanning a spectrum of contrasting yet complementary colours, styles and silhouettes that emphasises choice for the wearer.

“I really started this season with a lot of contrasts and contradictions that I wanted to make work,” says Van Assche. “Above all I wanted to build the human and the fun element back into a collection. Menswear felt desperate for a sense of fun, something light. At the same time if something is light, it doesn’t mean it isn’t serious in its intent.”